On our second day in Tokyo, we wanted to explore something different. I love the hustle and bustle that Tokyo offers but both me and my better half wanted to experience something a bit laidback and less-touristy probably with a bit of nature and authentic Japanese food.
For this reason we decided to spend a day travelling 90 minutes by train to Misaki and Jogashima, a small town off the south coast of Miura peninsula, famous for its seafood and scenic views.
Miura and Jogashima is actually quite a distance from where we stayed in Shibuya but thanks to Tokyo’s efficient train system (after you could survive its complicated network) it was a tolerable journey. The cool part about a daytrip to Miura and Jogashima is the availability of Misaki Maguro Ticket, a promo train + food + bus + 1 attractions combo ticket. Just for ¥2,980, a visitor would get a return train ticket from Shinagawa, unlimited bus rides in Miura and Jogashima area, a tuna set lunch at one of many participating restaurants, and free passes to one of the few attractions in the area.
Unfortunately we did not travel on a “blue sky” day which would be perfect for photography given that these two places are scenic with plenty of good photo op. In fact it rained most of time when we were there limiting the places that we could discover.
Nonetheless we had a fun day in Misaki Port and Jogashima. We kicked off things upon arrival at Misaki Port (after the train ride and a confusing bus ride) by visiting Kanagawa’s Misaki Fish Market. The locals claimed that they have Japan’s freshest tuna – hence the nickname for the town – ‘city of tuna’. So it is only right to visit this market first thing.
We left Tokyo as early as 5:30am just to reach Misaki Port in time to watch the Tuna dealing/auction. It was definitely worth it as both of us are into this kind of “people watching” activity.
Many tourists would prefer Tokyo Tsukiji market, as the auction involves high energy and excitement action but the process at Miura fish auction despite being relatively calmer and quitter is equally exciting. It is a strategy game between the players as they conduct their trade for the valuable Tunas.
See the notes on the Tuna? That’s how you place your price bid. This is serious business.
Despite that we could only see the action from the observation deck upstairs, it was a pleasant experience as for a good 30 minutes we were the only visitors. We were able to take our time observing and taking photos of almost all the processes involved in trading the Tuna.
At one corner of the fish market is a restaurant that serves… yes you guessed it right. Tuna. A perfect place to have breakfast after watching the Tuna auction.
Riding on its branding as the “city of Tuna”, Miura in 2001 opened an ordinary fish market that sells Tuna and other fresh stuff to normal visitors like us. Don’t be confused with the market where they do the auction. Those are for dealers buying in thousands, while this Fisharina Wharf Urari market is for those who buy for daily consumption. The buildings are next to each other so do check both out.
We were looking for snacks and spotted a stall with halal logo. The unique “maguro toro man” (a bun with tuna filling).
The thing about Misaki and Jogashima is that both are pretty laidback and preserve the charm of the old Japan. Perhaps not “old and beautiful” as the pretty streets that we saw in Kyoto but more of the “20-30 years ago flashback” kind of feeling. It is difficult not to compare what we saw with the crowded and modern Tokyo just 90 minutes away.
We had earlier wanted to use our free attraction pass at an old-skool aquarium to play with cute otters but as it was raining, we opted for a different attraction which is a sightseeing boat by the name of Nijiiro-sakana-go (Rainbow-Colored Fish Boat).
This boat ride is best experience on a warm sunny day hence that explains why there were only 4 visitors in a boat that can easily fit 30-40 people.
The first part was just a slow ride along the view of Miura and Jogashima Island with the attendant doing some bird feeding action attracting a colony of seagulls.
We also got to try doing it which turned out to be pretty fun. Cheap trill kind of fun.
After about 15 minutes ride, the Captain announced that it is time to go to the lower level of the boat. The viewing deck.
We could see a lot of fish but to be honest, with the explanation in Japanese and water quality not that clear, I was not really impressed. Still it was not a bad experience either 🙂
For the second half of the day, we went on to explore Jogashima Island which is accessible either through boats, car or the bus. Since we had the Misaki Maguro ticket, all bus within this area is free which makes our journey very easy.
Jogashima Island is famous for its combination of ocean views and breath-taking rocky beach. Of course it is best visited during a sunny summer day so it was quiet when we were there. Still the view is nice.
Equipped with a cheapo umbrella we went on a 90minutes walk/easy trek around the Island. First stop, the famous Jogashima Lighthouse.
Originally built in 1870, this lighthouse was destroyed during the Great Kanto Earthquake and was rebuilt and replaced with the current structure. According to Wikipedia, this lighthouse is the fourth oldest western style lighthouse to be built in Japan, and the 2nd oldest surviving to the present day.
Relaxing walk around the Island. Although it gets spooky at times with no one else around 🙂
Finally we reached our target, the iconic Umanose-Domon, an arch-shaped rock an effect of natural erosion created by a combination of waves, winds and rains over time.
Definitely worth the walk. Beautiful view.
Before heading back to Tokyo, we decided to celebrate our one day of walking with a heavy lunch meal. Thanks to the Misaki Maguro ticket, we had plenty of shops in Jogashima and Miura to choose from for our “free meal” (part of the ticket).
And what better way to end our daytrip to the “city of Tuna” with a bowl of rice topped with fresh Maguro.
Alhamdulillah a great experience and I would recommend Misaki Port and Jogashima to visitors who want to “escape” from the busy Tokyo life.
Click here to read about my visit to Fujiko F Fujio / Doraemon Museum
Click here to read about my visit to World’s Shortest Escalator
Click here to read about my Business Class flights to Tokyo